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SNOWSHOES - A FEW TIPS
Snowshoeing has evolved tremendously in the past few years from traditional wood and rawhide snowshoes to the often small, technical looking constructions of metal, plastic or rubber.... Your choice of traditional or newer technology will depend on your budget, tastes and requirements.
Firstly you must ask yourself as to on what type of terrain you will be enjoying one of North America's fastest growing sport: backcountry deep powdery snow, packed trails or steep mountains or hills. These issues coupled to specific requirements such as backpacking, competitive racing, or the need to carry heavy loads will be be determining factors in your choices.
Most metal frames are stronger than wood frames although ''bridging" a narrow path or any similar action may stress metal frames or lacing to the point of breakage...so.... which snowshoe would be easier to repair in the backwoods? You guessed it: the wood snowshoe with the use of a pocket knife, some wood and rope.. Many of today's metal snowshoe is constructed with high quality aircraft alloys and welded joints. Some companies have designes folding metal snowshoes which would reduce stress at the centre fold point in addition to being compact for that backpack fit...
Care and Maintenance
Traditional rawhide snowshoes will require more maintenance than its metal counterparts. Rawhide and lacings will require revarnishing as a result of being left in wet or humid places The action of crusty snow and ice on the snowshoe will affect the wood and rawhide in the long run.
Flotation
Let's face it...no matter what...greater surfaces will provide for better flotation unless your feet are tied to cast iron. So whether you are in tradional or metal snowshoes... flotation is pretty much the same for equal sizes. Various patterns such as holes or meshing in the snowshoe have no effect in flotation in snow. These patterns may have an effect if you were walking in mud or whipped butter. Make sure you follow recommendations in the weight charts often provided by the manufacturers.
Traction
Traction is an important issue since most terrains have slopes in varrying grades. Toothed crampons or cleats (made of strong plastics or metal) are a must on the underside of all snowshoes. Mountain Safety Research's (MSR) Denali Snowshoes are rigged with toothed crampons spikes which run longitudinally and tranversely , thus improving grip especially on firm icy surfaces.
Toes
There exists a variety of turn-up angles at the tip or toe of the snowshoe. The more the toe is turned-up, the better you will be able to get out of the snow if there is deep sinking. The forward stride is carried out in a more natural way with the use of shorter snowshoes. Therefore a short snowshoe with a well-curved toe may be a more practical solution than a large or long flat snowshoe with little curvature at the toe.
Foot Positioning
Weight towards the front of the snowshoe will facilitate climbing motion because of the digging-in effect created at the toe. However the effect of going ''downhill' may be felt on flat terrain. Snowhoes where the ball of the foot(hinge point) sitting in the middle will sink with a more horizontal effect on flat terrain. The feet set farther back will allow more sinking at the tail end thus providing for easier trailbreaking.
Width
Trailbreaking is facilitated with the use of a wider snowshoe . Narrower shoes are best for striding especially on sideslopes when the snowshoe is equipped with longitudinal rails.
Snowshoe Weight
Weight of the snowshoe is an important factor in the reduction of fatigue. A larger heavier shoe will require more lifting force than a narrow light snowshoe. The greater surface area of a larger snowshoe will result in more accumulated snow thus increasing weight and reducing flotation. Snow falls off the tail more easily with a shorter snowShoe since the foot lifting movement creates a strong slope enabling excess snow to ''slide-off'' snowshoe. Solid deckings such as Hypalon in Tubbs will create a better''slide-off'' effect that a soggy traditional rawhide shoe.
Bindings and Strapping
There have been many improvements in snowshoe bindings over the past few years and often a major factor in choosing the right snowshoe. Try attaching potential purchases in standing position wearing bulky clothing(obscuring your feet), a thick pair of gloves and boots you expect to use. Use leather waterproofer on leather straps and drench fabric webbing straps with a water repellent to reduce absorbency. Check for firmness of fabric webbing: the firmer the better. Straps made of rubber(Faber F2 and F3), non-absorbing plastic, hypalon or neoprene-nylon are best. Laderlock-style buckles have proven to be extremely convenient and practical. Yet, traditional row-of-holes-and-pin style buckle including MSR's fixed pin type of buckle are very reliable and freeze-free. The greatest improvement in today's bindings is in the directional and edging control allowing the snowshoe to turn with the turn of the foot. This is certainly an important feature on icy surfaces, in densely forested terrain and for beginners. However, it has been demonstrated that the more loosely fitting traditional binding is better suited for a more natural stride on long hauls on flat terrain.
Transverse Straps versus Hinge Rods
The directional control discussed above is created by strapping the boot to a sole plate that can rise and fall with the stride but does not twist laterally. This is achieved by attaching the sole plate to a transverse strap or a hinge rod. The transverse strap twists as the heel rises. The consumer must be made aware of the strenght of the strap. An important disadvantage related to the use of transverse straps on snowshoes is the winding up movement causing the snowshoe tail to spring up. Consequently, loose snow is ''sprayed'' to the back of the legs and the toe may catch in the shoe opening. Yet the springing up motion can be useful in backward movements and sidestepping logs. It should also be noted that the springing-up motion is lessened on a larger snowshoe since a longer transverse strap will twist more easily. Freedom of movement is enhanced with the use of hinge rod systems since less energy is required due to drag instead of lifting the tail end.
Sizing
Sizing in snowshoes will vary according to type of terrain and combined body and pack weight.
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